Finding Home

Slowly I've been turning my apartment into my home.  I began with small accessories: matching shower curtain, towels and bath mat; sheets and plump pillows for my bed; a wall clock and a little decorative wall art.  My son bought me a portable convection oven for Christmas...a nice addition, since the apartment only has a range top for cooking. 

My bedroom was furnished with two queen beds and a small bedside table.  A lot of my clothes were buried on the shelf in my closet or jammed into the one drawer in the bedside table.  So one day I asked Victor to remove the extra bed, which left the bedroom quite spacious.  My plan was to find a small chest of drawers, a matching bedside table, and then move the existing table to the living room to use as a tv table.  The tv had been perched atop a pink plastic stool with a small piece of plywood for stability and covered with a colorful piece of fabric...a little more shabby than chic!  Perfectly acceptable for someone staying only a month or two in Utila, but not for someone making the apartment into a permanent home.

There is a small furniture store in Utila, but the only chest of drawers available there had a large attached mirror, which I didn't really want.  I then asked my friend, Sondy, if she wanted to take a trip to the mainland with me so we could shop around there for some used furniture.  A couple of people had mentioned Productos Americanos, a large store in La Ceiba which sold gently used furniture from the states.

Sometimes things just fall into place so nicely that you know it was meant to be.  Sondy's husband flew to the island from San Pedro for a visit and let us take the chartered plane to La Ceiba for a day of shopping and errands.  We drove around for over an hour trying to find the furniture store, but it soon became apparent that we would have to scrub that idea and get back to the airport for the return flight.  On the way, we passed a small store with a chest of drawers out front, so we stopped to see what was available.  There I bought a beautiful chest of drawers and matching bedside table, hand made of Honduran cedar, for just over $200.  They were delivered by boat the following week and are now usefully and fashionably situated in my bedroom.

Although most of the residents here at the Sandstone Apartments are short term, there are a few of us who are long term.  My next door neighbor, Jason, has been here almost as long as I have.  He is starting an exciting new business, Breakthrough Adventures, which utilizes his expertise as a life coach and also as a diving instructor. Jason's premise is that people can overcome their fear of diving...and he's the man to help them do it.  As I have done, he also has commited to living in Utila and following his dream.

Mac & Nichol are here for nine months as missionaries.  Young, energetic and sociable, they have been a delight to have as friends and neighbors.  They will be returning to Canada in May, and I will definitely miss having them here.

James, also from Canada, was here for only a couple of months, but sometimes you just click with people, and that was the case with James.  I found that we had a lot of common beliefs, and our friendly discussions of current world issues were in-depth and satisfying.  In the evenings we would sit together on the porch with our glasses of wine and enjoy the ocean breeze.  He is in Ireland now, with his girlfriend, for a tour of that country before they return to their homes in Canada.

Since the Sandstone is on the outskirts of town and rather secluded, we have developed into our own little microcosm.  We rely on one another for trips to town, evening conversations over a glass of wine, morning coffee at Rio Coco, occasional pot luck dinners, and the occasional borrowed cup of sugar.  Jason gets his "kitty fix" from my cat, Pumpkin, who loves to wander next door into his apartment uninvited.

A recent pot luck get-together included Sondy, Eric, Jason, James, and James' brother, Chris.

Sondy, who manages the apartments for her sister and brother-in-law, lives upstairs with her son, Charlie, and his nanny.  She divides her time between here and San Pedro, where her husband lives and maintains his construction business.  He visits the island often, and Sondy occasionally makes a trip to San Pedro as well.

Sondy is very accommodating with the residents here.  She will drive us around if needed and makes any necessary improvements with the apartments.  I had an old fridge that needed to be defrosted every couple of months and she just swapped it for a very nice frost-free fridge.  Next week she's having my bedroom painted because of a little damage done during a particularly heavy rainfall.  She often goes shopping for us and currently has a shopping list from both Jason and me for the next time she goes to San Pedro.

I have my own little golf cart now, which makes shopping and going longer distances much easier.  I still love to walk, so I continue to do that if I'm going to Rio Coco for coffee or going to the bank or post office.  Doug, another expat here on the island, rebuilds used golf carts and he customized this one for me.  It has some cool wood accents and a gold stripe around the midsection.   In my previous life I was a school bus driver, and we lady drivers always named our buses.  Following that tradition, I've named my golf cart Bucky, a reminder to me of the Wisconsin Badgers football and basketball teams which brought me so much enjoyment.

I have quickly accustomed myself to both the similarities and the differences between cultures.  I know when the ferry is bringing shipments of food to the stores, know what days Rio Coco is open for coffee, know what time of day certain businesses are closed for siesta, know that no one is in a rush to get anything done, and know that if you ever need anything there are hundreds of people right there to help you.

There are many talented artists living and creating in Utila.  Gunter creates plaques with maps of the island...some of them three-dimensional...and whale sharks sprinkled with colorful resins that glow when hung in a sunny window. Dennis, a self taught artist, paints vibrant ocean views with acrylics and watercolors.  Neil, artistic designer of The Jade Seahorse, creates his fairytale designs from recycled bottles, broken china, and other reused objects. 

I am surrounded by so much beauty that it's difficult to take it all in.  I always have my camera with me, because I'm never sure what amazing scene might be right around the corner.

The ocean is a source of serenity and joy for me.  My roots are by the ocean, and just listening to the roar of the surf and witnessing the crash of waves against the rocks, gives me comfort and a feeling of being home.  To some, the ocean is just a body of water.  To others, such as I, the ocean touches something deep within our souls, and it's both physical, sensual and spiritual. 

If I have to be separated from my family, I'm overjoyed that it can be here by the ocean, in this little community of friends who feel like family.  Each new day brings untold beauty, interesting discoveries, new friendships and exciting opportunities.  I have found my forever home.

A Serendipitous Life

Finding Utila was no coincidence...of that I am certain.  I have been here for six months now, a milestone that some thought I'd never reach.  During that time I've achieved a greater understanding of my responsibility to the Earth, the importance of sacrifice in our daily lives, the true meaning of love for all creatures, and the unbridled joy of living a simple life.  I'd like to share some of that with you today through some of the many photos I've taken since my arrival.

What could be more inspiring than waking to such a glorious sunrise?  I get sunrises from one end of my porch and sunsets from the other end.  Doesn't get much better than that!  The intensity of the colors always amazes me.  I've recently begun taking yoga classes.  How peaceful it is to lay my mat down next to the porch railing, in the glow of the early morning light, and stretch my muscles into wakefulness while synchronizing my breath with the ebb and flow of the waves.  I feel so close to my Creator, and completely connected to nature.

When day is done and the sun sets on Utila, the colors become softer and more subtle.  Do you suppose this is a part of the grand scheme of things...vibrant, intense color in the morning to help energize us for the day ahead; quiet, peaceful color in the evening to bring about a restful mood in preparation for sleep?

This is the view from my bedroom window.  I'm fortunate enough to be able to lay in my bed at night and be lulled to sleep by the rhythmic melodies of waves rushing to shore.  I believe we are all drawn to the ocean...a timeless reminder of life in the womb, surrounded by the life-sustaining amniotic fluid.  Born and raised near the ocean, I lived most of my adult life away from it in the center of the United States.  It was sad to be so removed from the sea, for it was in my soul.  Perhaps I am being rewarded now...nearing the end of my days here on Earth...with a life surrounded by the sea.

There is year-round flora on Utila.  During the rainy season, October through January, some flowers don't bloom as prolifically, but during the warmer summer months the island is ablaze in color. Many residents have an abundant variety of tropical flora...a palette that will please all the senses.

Most Utilians understand the connection between the land and their well-being and survival.  By developing the land "around" the trees, instead of clearing the trees, they are insuring the island's sustainability.  Substantial rainfall during the rainy season is crucial to maintaining healthy flora during the hot summer months.  Rainwater is also the main water source on the island.  Cisterns collect the water for use in bathing, laundry, toileting and cleaning, while drinking water is ferried in from the mainland.  A healthy growth of palms and other trees means there will always be sufficient rainfall to sustain the population of Utila.

 There are many unusual fruits and vegetables growing on Utila.  This photo is of a sapote (suh - po - tay), a sweet, orange-fleshed fruit reminiscent of pumpkin with the spices already added.  Avocado, mango, papaya, limes, bananas, pineapple, coconuts and sapote grow in abundance on Utila...each ripening at different times of the year.  The locals are warm and friendly people who don't hesitate in sharing their bounty.  My friend, Sheldon, just gave me a beautiful papaya yesterday.  It needs a few days to fully ripen, but I'm really anticipating the fresh sweetness of it.  No pesticides are used on the island.  Utilians are very careful of protecting the pristine beauty of the coral reef here...the world's second largest...so no poisonous substances are allowed.  It's comforting to know that what I'm ingesting isn't going to sicken or kill me.

This is a special type of banana that grows on Utila.  As you can see by the knife I placed next to them, they are only about half the size of normal bananas.  They are slightly firmer and much, much sweeter than the average banana.  They aren't in season right now, but I can't wait until they are again!  I make myself a banana or sapote smoothie every morning for breakfast, using vanilla soy milk and plain yogurt made by my friend Gunter.  Gunter even sells his yogurt to the grocery store and Rio Coco Beans Cafe for their smoothies...it's so good, and good for you!

Every year, during the summer months, the baby crabs make their journey from the ocean, inland.  Hundreds and even thousands of them cross the road by my apartment.  Unfortunately, with the increased use of scooters and golf carts on the island, many of them don't make it.  During this time I can hear them rustling in the grass by the sides of the road as I walk to town, and it's not unusual to see them scurry into a hole as I pass by.

If you don't have a scooter, golf cart, bicycle, or a good pair of legs on Utila, you can take a local taxi anywhere on the island for only $1.50.  I love to walk, so most of the time I just use my legs.  However, if I'm going somewhere at night or I have a lot of groceries to carry, I'll get Alejandro to take me where I'm going.  He doesn't speak English, and I don't speak Spanish, but somehow we manage to communicate with one another.  At the end of February I'll be getting my own golf cart, so I won't need Alejandro anymore.  He will undoubtedly miss the extra 50 cents I always give him.  There isn't a lot of employment on the island, and many of the Honduran people live in poverty.  The mainland sees a lot of crime, but the island is very peaceful and safe.

Tourism is the main source of income for the island, and there are almost thirty dive shops here.  They are all PADI certified and courses for Master Diver and Dive Instructor are given in both English and Spanish.  Most of the dive centers have dorm rooms where divers can stay for as little as $1/night.  Many of my friends dive and/or snorkel; some do amazing underwater photography as well. On one occasion I saw a blanket of plastic bottles float onto shore behind my apartment building.  Shocked and amazed, I asked some of the locals what was happening, and was disgusted to learn that cruise ships actually dump their refuse at sea.  What a tragedy for sea life, and how irresponsible of the cruise lines to treat our oceans like their personal dumping ground.  The local Bay Island Conservation Assoc. holds a beach cleanup once a month, and I do my own personal cleanup along the beach behind my apartment.

I leave you today with this photo of a double rainbow...the first one I've ever witnessed in my 65 years.  This was my first rainy season on Utila...not a bad one, as I've heard they can be quite heavy.  We were fortunate to get a lot of our rain while sleeping at night...an added bonus.  I hope you enjoyed today's photos and stories.  I look forward to sharing more of them with you as my life on Utila develops.

Jungles & Kittens & Lionfish...Oh My!

My friend Rena and her two daughters, Electra and Hailey, recently moved to Pumpkin Hill, a lush green jungle filled with banana trees, tarantulas and small boas.  It's a couple of miles outside of town, and not the easiest place to access.  You can only drive as far as the Jungle Cafe, and then you must walk the rest of the way, all uphill. 

They live in a tree house...an actual house built around a very large, very old tree...and it's really kind of cool, although extremely unconventional.  The bathroom is a structure separate from the house, very rustic, with an open shower area on one side and a raised floor containing the commode and sink.  Picture it as the opposite of a sunken bathroom.

The stairs leading to the main floor are poorly spaced and difficult to climb.  A roomy kitchen/dining area and small bedroom are on that level.  A ladder and tree branch take you to the third-floor sleeping quarters.  I found it very difficult to maneuver, but Rena and the girls are young and agile and apparently have no difficulty.  Although rustic, there are all the amenities, including air conditioning.  Rena is a throwback to another time.  She enjoys living off the land, shuns doctors and traditional medicines, and uses only raw milk, whole wheat products and no sugar.  While not for me, this lifestyle suits her perfectly.

If you walk to the top of Pumpkin Hill, you can look down on the entire island and surrounding ocean.  Friends Kate and Daniel took a hike up there and reported an "awesome view".  I didn't make the hike this time, but will return another time and take pictures to share here.

Last week I opened my apartment door one morning to find a tiny orange tabby kitten curled up in a ball on my Welcome mat.  Being a cat lover, and missing the cat I had to leave behind in the states, I couldn't resist picking him up and petting him.  I asked Victor, the caretaker, if he knew where the cat came from and he motioned (not being able to speak English...and I not able to understand Spanish) for me to bring him inside my apartment.

The poor little guy was so tiny and scrawny looking...although cute as a button!  I had no appropriate food for a kitten, so I took a piece of whole wheat bread and broke it up into small pieces and soaked it in a little milk.  He devoured it instantly.  Because he is the color of a Halloween pumpkin, I named him Pumpkin, deciding then and there that he should be my new companion.

Once Pumpkin's belly was full, he took up residence in the spare bed in my bedroom for a nice, long nap.  I used that time to walk to town for cat supplies...food, litter, litter box...and the bonding of pet and pet owner began.

I believe divine intervention brought Pumpkin to me.  He was a starving kitten without a home, and I was alone and in need of a friend.  It was serendipity that he arrived at my door that morning.  Now we are both joyful in our friendship.  He snuggles with me at night, plays with me during the day, and...being a frisky kitten...sometimes gets into mischief.

It's all good.  We were meant for each other. 

Last weekend there was a Lionfish Cookoff in town.  I had never heard of lionfish before, but apparently they have migrated here from Florida.  An invasive species, they are a poisonous spiky fish with few predators.  For this reason, Lionfish Derbies are often held to help keep the lionfish population under control.  This is especially important to help preserve the habitat of the reef.

Following the early morning Derby, chefs from several restaurants in town prepared some exotic lionfish samplers for the people of Utila.  We all gathered at Tranquila, a local restaurant/bar for the free, tasty treats: seviche, fish spread & crackers, baked fillets with aromatic herbs, croquettes and curry.  The lionfish is a mild-tasting white fish, so added herbs and spices is what gives it flavor.

There were shoulder-to-shoulder people, and it was difficult to even get close to the food, but well worth standing in the long lines for a taste.  This is a photo of my friend, Linda, with her daughter, Sarah, who was visiting from Santa Fe, New Mexico.  Utila is a small island and...with the exception of short-term tourists...you get to know most everyone, so it was an enjoyable afternoon visiting with island friends as well.

I've been invited to join Dustin and Kate, Managers of Rio Coco, for Thanksgiving dinner.  We will all gather at Sondy's, since she has the largest table seating.  We're still working out the details...who brings what...but it will be nice to be with some of my Utila family for the holiday.  Skyping with my biological family will definitely be on the agenda!  It's a little difficult for me to wrap my head around the holidays this year because of my location.  It's far too warm and tropical to be thinking about holidays I equate with snow and cold!

Despite this being the rainy season, we have seen numerous sunny days.  The rains come sporadically and...thankfully...mostly during the night.  Sometimes there are showers during the day, but then the skies clear and the sun comes out.  One morning's shower ended with a beautiful double rainbow...only the second one I've seen in my lifetime.  The island continues to enthrall me!

Island Butterfly

I should apologize for being remiss in publishing my blogs.  I've been so busy flitting about the island, meeting new people, making new friends, having coffee/lunch/drinks with old(er) friends.  All part of the process of finding my niche and becoming an island local.

The Sandstone Apts. are filled and bustling with new energy.  Rita, the owner, left for Texas yesterday to spend time with her two daughters who both just had babies...one of them, twins!  Another of her daughters, Sondy, is here from the mainland to take care of things while Rita is gone.  Sondy is my son's age, and we've been "buddying up" for coffee at Rio Coco in the mornings.  Some evenings she will join me for a glass of wine and some conversation.  She's also been very helpful in introducing me to local remedies for keeping mosquitos and sand flies at bay...a huge frustration here in Utila.

Rena and her two pre-teen daughters, Electra and Hailey, live above me.  They are very in tune with the earth and rigid in their religious beliefs.  They eat only natural foods and use no pharmaceuticals of any kind.  Rena treated Electra's skin infection with garlic, and she showed me how to use the membrane fom the inside of an eggshell in place of a band-aid on a wound.  Both remedies were extremely effective...amazing!

A young couple from Majorca moved in next door to me.  They are training to become Certified Dive Instructors.  Next to them is Jason, here from Canada to combine his two vocations...Dive Instructor and Life Coach...into a new online enterprise.  Mac and Nicole, two Seventh-Day Adventist Missionaries, fill out the small community at the Sandstone.  All are friendly, generous and interesting people.

Tom & Jo, recently retired, are building a beautiful home at the opposite end of the island from me, across from the Cays (pronounced Keys).  He picked Jan and I up in his inflatable motor boat one day last week and brought us for a tour of the new digs.  The "banana boat", as he calls it, rests on tubes, which help to keep it afloat.  The floor of the boat opens up so that he and Jo can dive without having to go over the side of the boat.  It's an amazingly smooth ride, even on rough water.

As we approached his dock, workmen were busy putting the finishing touches on the second (main) level and the swimming pool in front of the house.  Tom believes work on the house should be completed in another week or two, but there is still landscaping to be done.  The house is lovely, with all the bells and whistles, and the view from their home is quite enviable. 

Yesterday I made my way to the Driftwood Cafe for lunch and a couple of friendly rounds of Scrabble with Linda, who lives at neighboring Margaritaville.  Later this afternoon she and Sharon, co-owner of the Drift, are going to pick me up for a Ladies' Night at Loretta's.  They were going to snorkel first...then eat, drink and visit...but a little tropical storm blew in overnight and has continued throughout the day, so the snorkeling is probably on hold.  More time to eat and drink...and, of course, visit!

When I didn't show up at Rio Coco for coffee this morning, Sheldon came out to check on me.  He rode his bike all the way out in the rain.  He tells me how much he enjoys conversation with me, and I can't be sure if it's honesty or flattery.  I'm a little wary of men and the possibility of their deceit, given my previous history.  I'll continue to be cautious, and time will tell. 

We had a break in the rain later in the morning, so Sondy quickly came to round me up for a trip to Rio Coco.  Because of the rain and ensuing cooler temperature, we decided to have a hot cup of Mocha instead of the usual iced Mochas.  Kate was actually wearing a sweatshirt!  Kate and Dustin, newly married for just one month yesterday, are doing an exceptional job of running Rio Coco, and it's refreshing to witness their enthusiasm.  The Honduran and Nicaraguan coffees are excellent, and at only $2.25 for a latte, it's a real deal!

I have been here for two months now, and it really feels like home.  I've become accustomed to the cultural differences, as well as the island "quirks"...such as no satellite when it rains and no flushing of toilet paper down the toilet...and the people I've met and quickly become friends with are unassuming, helpful and gracious.  Life as an island butterfly is, thus far, satisfying and joyous.

Adjusting

I've been on this lovely island for one month now. Some major adjustments have taken place, and I've experienced some emotional highs and lows as well. No one said a move such as this would be easy!

Medical issues have been front and center for a few weeks. I was taking a low-dose antidepressant for nerve pain in my feet and was trying...unsuccessfully...to get the medication here. You can walk into any pharmacy here and just ask for Valium, but antipsychotics, antidepressants and anticonvulsants require a prescription. Due to the lengthy process, I had run out of the medication I brought with me. I was on edge...waiting for the unbearable pain to start...and frustrated that it was seemingly impossible to get what I needed.

Just when I had a doctor's prescription and thought I was finally going to get my meds, fate stepped in again. The pharmacy didn't 'like' the doctor's stamp on the prescription.  I was on the verge of despair when I thought to myself, "wait...your feet have been all right...a little numbness off and on, mainly due to uncomfortable shoes or sitting for too long."  What if fate were telling me to get off the medication?  And so the decision was made to let fate decide.  So far, so good!

I was also experiencing considerable fatigue during the day.  'Something' was waking me up in the middle of the night...usually around 2-3 AM...scratching, clawing...in the walls?...under the floor?  What was it?  Where was it?  Once awakened by it, I couldn't stay in the bedroom.  What if it was able to get in there? 

The next night I pushed the two chairs together and slept in the living room.  Not very comfortable, and not a good night's sleep.  I spoke to the owner about the noises.  She thought it was caused by palm branches rubbing against the building, so she had the handyman...Victor...cut the brush back.  I slept, once again, in the bedroom and was awakened at 4 by the scratching.  Back to the living room! 

The next night we had an angry storm...a deluge of rain and crashes of thunder that shook the apartment building.  There was much more than scratching that night...loud and desperate clawing, up, up, up the wall...thumping...crashing.  I couldn't take much more of this.  Victor speaks no English, and I speak no Spanish...and so, I mimed to him the events of the previous night!  Later in the day, the owner stopped by to tell me that Victor had found a very large iguana trapped in a pipe leading to the cistern.  He freed it...problem solved!

At the same time as the ensuing quandry about my feet/medication, we experienced quite a bit of rain on Utila.  I was staying put in my apartment...not wanting to get drenched and not wanting to overdo the walking because of my feet.  I began to miss my family...miss my friends...everyone I knew and loved was so far away.  I wasn't sleeping well because of my unseen visitor.  I was worried that I could soon be in unbearable pain.  I was having an extra glass of wine at night to help me sleep.

I realized I was experiencing some mild depression, so I had a long talk with myself.  "You know this isn't uncommon, Carolyn.  Anyone who makes a lifestyle change will, at some point, ask themselves 'what was I thinking?'.  You were expecting this.  Now deal with it.  You're a sociable person, and you need people in your life.  It's not good to sit in this apartment and dwell on things you can't change.  Make sure you get out with people every day.  Walk to Rio Coco for an iced latte.  Sit and talk with the nice young men who work there.  Strike up conversations with the other customers.  Go to the book/video store or one of the realty companies and get to know the owners and employees better.  Get out and DO...every single day, rain or shine!"

I'm nothing if not a good listener, and I paid close attention to what I told myself!  The very next day I journeyed to Rio Coco.  I had an interesting conversation with a young couple from Portland, Oregon, who are traveling all over Central America.  They were leaving for El Salvador that afternoon.  I met an absolutely gorgeous young man with the most beautiful tattoos I have ever seen.  After complimenting him, he explained the elaborate tats to me in detail.  It was satisfying just to gaze on his beauty.  A couple of days later, I made a new friend there...Sheldon...who surprised me with freshly caught tuna the following afternoon.

The health benefits of living here have been amazing.  Not only am I off the medication I was taking for nerve pain, but I have stopped taking Prilosec for acid reflux.  I'm eating smaller meals, walking every day, losing weight.  I've had no sinus problems since I've been here.  No allergies?  No pollution?  Salt air?  I don't know why, but I'm happy to not have a constantly drippy nose.  No more back issues...that's huge!  Before I left the states I was barely able to straighten up after bending over.  My fingernails have grown long and hardened.  I can't remember the last time I was able to grow my nails long!

An added bonus, I'm now very comfortable in my apartment.  No more scary noises; I fall asleep to the sound of ocean waves breaking on the shore; all my mementos of family and friends are strategically placed; although I can't have a pet here, I do have a gecko family that comes and goes.  Having the proper perspective helps, and it's important to not allow anything to keep you down.  I am only as weak as I allow myself to be...and as strong as I will myself to be.       

Becoming a Utilian

It's not as easy to set up residency in Utila as it may be in other countries.  Setting up a bank account was a huge hurdle, although friend, Jan, was surprised that I was able to get one in a week's time.  It took four trips to the bank. 

On the first visit we found out what was needed: two notarized letters of recommendation...one from my bank in the states and one from a person or business owner in Utila.  I had the letter from the bank, but either Jan had neglected to tell me to get it notarized or I zoned it out when she told me.  Jan said she would supply the letter of recommendation for me.  She has a seal because she set up a corporation here on Utila for legal purposes. 

Jan also thought she could get the municipal judge here on Utila to stamp the letter from my bank and that would take care of both items.  Just in case, she had me make a copy of the bank letter to send back home with my daughter.  Then, if the bank didn't accept that seal, I could get my daughter to go to my bank, have it notarized, scanned and emailed to me, thus eliminating the two-three week's delay in mailing it.

A few days after the first visit, we returned to the bank with my bank letter, stamped by the judge...which cost me ten dollars...and Jan's letter with her stamp.  Well, that didn't go over at all!  The bank didn't like Jan's seal because there was too much ink on it.  They also didn't like the judge's seal because it needed to be notarized by the person at my bank who signed the letter, not a Honduran stamp.  Try again!

Jan printed out her letter once again and stamped it with a lighter touch.  I phoned my daughter and asked her to take the copy of the bank letter to my bank and have the person who signed it notarize it and email it back to me.  That actually only took two days.

Jan dropped me off at the bank on the third try, while she ran errands.  I guess she figured I was an old hand at it by now and didn't need her supervision!  Both letters were accepted.  But wait!  A form also needed to be filled out with my check of deposit and the letters of recommendation, and...wouldn't you know...they needed my cell phone number.  All good and well, except I didn't have one!  Oh, I'd had one in the states...a Tracfone...but they don't work out of the country.  And, on the island of Utila, U.S. Cellular and the like don't work either.  I have Skype and also a Magic Jack...both of which work from my computer...but they needed a Honduran phone number.  They also needed the phone number of the person I'm renting from.  I assured the (very nice, very helpful) young woman that I would be back as soon as possible.

Luckily Jan had Rita's phone number programmed in her phone.  Finding a cell phone for me might not be so easy.  The first place we went said they were having a problem activating their phones, so they couldn't sell them until that was straightened out.  We went to another place where we had better luck, and he set it up in English instead of Spanish.  I only bought 50 lemps worth (about $3 U.S dollars) of minutes, because I knew I would only use the phone in case of emergency.

Back to the bank...and...success!  I now had a Utilian bank account.  Before you get too excited, though, I can't use the account for twenty-two business days.  Which means I will probably run out of cash before I can go to the bank and get more!  Jan has assured me she will not allow me to go hungry, however, and if I need money before I can get some out, she will help me out.

On a lighter note...while I was at the bank for the third time...Jan introduced me to a friend of her's, Sue, who happens to be a neighbor of mine.  She lives just two houses down from me in a home that she designed herself, with a magical view of the ocean.  She's a retired school principal from Indiana (originally Pennsylvania) and lives in her house with two extremely funny Springer Spaniels, George and Kramer.  She has a boyfriend who is sometimes here and sometimes in the states. She asked for my email address before leaving the bank, and by the time I returned home, I had an email from her inviting me over that afternoon.

We had such a nice visit, many things in common, and I knew by the time we returned from having dinner together that I had made a new friend.  A new bank account and a new friend...all in all, not a bad day.  I'm really beginning to feel like a Utilian!

My First Week In Utila

Although I was exhausted from traveling the entire previous day, I was up before the sun rose on my first full day in Utila.  After unpacking my luggage, I showered, dressed, and Monice and I started out on our first walk to town.  It was early yet, and not too hot. 

Jan had told us the night before which stores were the best for price, fresh produce, delicious meals, the best coffee.  We stopped at a bakery(above)...with a very unusual name...that she had recommended for excellent coffee and bacon-broccoli quiche.  She was spot-on with her assessment.  The meal cost $3.50.

At 10:00 AM, Jan picked us up in her golf cart and drove us, first, to the bank, where two armed guards checked our bags prior to knocking on the window, signaling the guard inside to unlock the door and let us in.  Crime is minimal in Utila...occasionally someone has a laptop stolen...but Honduras is a poor country and having armed guards in front of the bank acts as a deterrent.  Monice and I both exchanged our U.S. dollars for lempiras (or lemps, as the locals call them).  The U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere, but the exchange rate varies by store, so it's the better deal to do it at the bank.

We were gone all day, as Jan drove us over almost every inch of the island.  We visited many shops, with Jan introducing me to everyone.  Chris, an American from Oregon, owns a book/video store.  They can be bought, rented or swapped, and the rental fee is twenty lemps per week, or one U.S. dollar. 

Chepes Beach was a favorite spot during our tour.  It's a beautiful vista of blue/green water and white sand, without a speck of litter seen anywhere, and no seaweed washed onto the shore.  I'm not sure if the lack of seaweed has to do with the warm water, or if there's another reason.  Palms and coconuts sprinkled the beach, and a lovely bar/restaurant, The Driftwood, was where we enjoyed seafood for lunch and margaritas to cool us off.

Jan showed us both of her homes.  The first one she built is for sale, a one-room all-inclusive beach cottage with gazebo and plenty of land to build a larger home or add on to the existing one.  Her new house is across the street, much larger with two stories and a huge deck off the bedroom which overlooks the bay.  The house operates on solar power, so the lucky lady is not affected by storms and power outages.

The flora and fauna are magnificent on the island.  Hibiscus bloom everywhere, along with many varieties I've never seen.  The colors are brilliant and, thanks to tropical rains which blow in and out in record time, everything is lush and green.  The island is littered with tiny hermit crabs (see below) and larger crabs with one gigantic claw which makes them look off-balance.  Tiny geckos are scattered everywhere.  They frequently visit in my apartment and, sadly, I accidentally smooshed my first visitor in the window.  Larger iguanas, called wishie willies by the locals, also can be seen crossing the road or scaling the side of a building or wall.

The days flew quickly.  We walked into town twice a day....once in the morning for breakfast or coffee and maybe a little shopping, and again in the late afternoon for dinner and pictures of the sunset.  We found a wonderful place for coffee that just opened recently, and it's not very far from my apartment...maybe a 10-minute walk.  Rio Coco Beans is owned by Michael & Laura Bagby, missionaries who came to Honduras to help the Miskito Indian refugees who fled to Honduras from Nicaragua during the war.  The cafe is staffed by volunteers, including two of their daughters, Arielle and Moselle, and their profits go towards helping the schools.

There are many things on the island that are quite different from the life I left behind in the states.  The locals do whatever they can to make money.  They don't beg or pester the tourists for money or services, but sprinkled here and there throughout the streets of town are tables or lean-to's with everything from mangoes to baked goods to hand-crafted jewelry for sale. 

Some locals find very unique ways to earn money, such as the master craftsman who builds coffins fashioned as coffee tables.  Although slightly macabre, they are a hot commodity here on the island. Locals and tourists alike buy them for their dual purposes: a useful piece of furniture while they live, and a resting place after death.

A final day on Utila for my daughter was spent mostly at the various beaches.  She collected rocks, shells and pieces of coral for her son, even finding some larger pieces for me to decorate my apartment.  I was sad at the thought of her leaving, and I felt strangely vulnerable at being left alone to experience life on Utila.  "This is what you wanted, Carolyn", I reminded myself.  "You can do this."

  

On the morning she left, I cried and held tight to her.  I didn't wait for the ferry to leave.  That would be prolonging the agony.  Instead I returned home to my cute little apartment, intent on scrubbing, cleaning and organizing...both to keep my mind busy and to also make the place my own.  It will be a mental adjustment, but I will make Utila my home.  I will find my purpose here.